Bakuchiol, the most popular cosmetic ingredient these days
Bakuchiol is a naturally occurring ingredient in the leaves and roots of a plant called Bogolji or Pagoji, which grows in the Indian subcontinent. Currently, it is attracting attention in the skin care scene as an ingredient that promotes collagen synthesis. It is a new retinol substitute that does not cause stinging, itchiness, or erythema that accompanies the use of retinol. In fact, bakuchiol is a raw material that has a long history of being used as a treatment in Ayurveda and Chinese medicine. And now it is attracting attention in Western skincare research as a natural plant alternative to retinoids.
Bakuchiol vs Retinol
Although bakuchiol has a different chemical structure from retinol, the cellular pathways and gene targeting activities leading to collagen upregulation are similar. According to research results published in the British Journal of Dermatology in 2018, bakuchiol was less irritating compared to retinol in improving skin aging symptoms, but had comparable results.
For 12 weeks, 44 patients applied 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice a day or 0.5% retinol cream every night. These results led researchers to discover that retinol and bakuchiol had similar effects on wrinkles and pigmentation. However, the results showed that bakuchiol caused less skin irritation, stinging, burning, and itching.
However, this does not mean that retinol is not better than bakuchiol. For many people who feel irritated by retinol, a good alternative is a raw material called bakuchiol.
How does bakuchiol work?
1) Collagen production
By stimulating collagen production, wrinkles are reduced and skin elasticity and resistance are improved.
2) Improved pigmentation
Skin with hyperpigmentation caused by UV rays is also noticeably improved.
3) Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects
It does not mimic the structure of retinol, but when it acts on the skin, it stimulates the retinoid receptor responsible for collagen type 1 synthesis in the dermis, showing very similar efficacy. In other words, it has the same effect as retinol by stimulating the regeneration cycle of the skin surface to make the skin smooth.
4) Improve skin elasticity
Because it is an ingredient extracted from bakuchiol seed oil, which has been used in herbal treatment, it acts like an analog retinoid in skin care. Like retinol, it is a raw material that not only speeds up the skin regeneration cycle and relieves 'dark spots', but also plumps the skin.
What skin type is bakuchiol better suited to?
Bakuchiol is suitable for all skin types. Dry, sensitive, oily, combination skin. It is a safe ingredient for those who expect anti-aging effects without irritating the skin. It can also be used with vitamin C or acid ingredients in serums and creams. Also, since it does not react sensitively to sunlight, a big advantage is that it can be used even in the morning.